Well as fate would have it I ended up back in San Diego a few months later. This was my second chance to do all the things I didn't do the first time around. My brother must have known how essential it was that I learned to surf if I was going to live here, because when he came out to visit just a few weeks later, he pushed for us to take surfing lessons.
The lessons went pretty well, but there really isn't a lot you can teach someone to prepare them to surf. Everything you need to know can be taught in about five minutes, the rest of the lesson is trail and error. I guess the good thing about taking a lesson though is that it gives you the confidence to get out there and try it.
I have been surfing for about two years now, and I definitely don't feel like I'm a pro at it. Progressing at surfing is such a slow process. I seldom feel like I am improving from day to day, but when I look back 18, 12, or even 6 months ago, I can see the progress I have made...even though I haven't realized it.
Surfing is an interesting past time. I cant think of anything else that can be peaceful, scary, beautiful, relaxing, exhausting, and fun, all at the same time.
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